The number one reason dogs are given up is because they are not housebroken. The most effective way to housetrain a dog/puppy is to limit responsibility. Keep the dog/pup in your line of vision.  Keep ahead of the messes.  If the dog is given enough chances to go out, most if not all, accidents can be prevented.  When trying to limit the dog’s responsibility in the house, crate training is best.  When the dog/puppy is left alone or at night it should be in a crate.  The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and sleep comfortably.  The first step in housetraining is to teach the dog/puppy to keep his “den” clean. The dog/pup will begin to see the crate as his/her den.  It is best to keep the dog or puppy out of rooms with soft surfaces until the dog/pup is housebroken.  You can also use baby gates to limit the dog’s access to certain rooms.  When using the crate do not leave the dog/puppy alone for more than 5 hours at a time.  After 5 hours have someone walk take it out.  It is okay to confine a dog/puppy overnight because they are sleeping and their systems shut down.  It is a good idea to crate the dog or puppy in your bedroom.  This gives the dog 6-8 additional hours with you.  Dogs crated in the bedroom where you are sleeping tend to be calmer and less needy, as well as less demanding.  You cannot trust your puppy to treat the whole house as his/her den until it is fully mature.

    If you adopt an older dog expect a transition period.  This period lasts about a month and the dog's responsibility should be limited as if he/she was a puppy. The change for the dog is quite stressful and the transition may affect housetraining  Usually when a dog does make a mistake, it means that they don’t have the idea of housebreaking.  They have not associated the area they messed in as their den.  At times medical issues, sudden changes in diet, too much/too little or the wrong kind of attention can lead to housebreaking issues.  Please realize that a change in environment, whether an older dog or a puppy, may cause the dog to have accidents. This includes any pets you may already have at home.  Their environment can be changed by the arrival of a new dog, cat, baby, spouse or housemate .  Be aware that if you have young children, a dog may urinate where diapers are kept or anywhere they leak.

   The secret to housebreaking is to get the dog to adjust to a schedule.  Put the dog out at high points of probability. For example, let the dog out:

• Upon waking up

• Prior to and after confinement

• After playing

• Upon a visitor's arrival 

• After walks

• Before and after car rides

• After accidents

• If the dog is restless, trying to leave room, whiny, etc

• After eating and drinking

• young pups under 3 months within 15 minutes

• 3 to 6 months—within 30 minutes

• over 6 months within 40 to 60 minutes minutes

   Of course some dogs may vary.  If dog slips up and goes before allotted time, do get it out that much sooner in the future.  If you catch the dog starting to mess in the house, do not punish the dog or puppy.  A negative sound may be needed with some training but definitely not for housebreaking.  Pick up the dog to interrupt it and rush it outside.  Never punish for an accident.  Do not ask him/her if they did it or stick their nose in it.  Punishing or yelling at a dog when houstraining is ineffective.  The dog will not connect your anger with it's mistake.  The dog will only associate your presence with the mess.  For if you punish, the dog may become reluctant to relieve itself outdoors when you are around.  Nor should you correct after the fact for it may cause the dog to fear you or at the very least create stress and confusion. So when an accident occurs, think about WHY it occurred and see that you do not put the dog/puppy in a position where it can repeat that mistake.

   When accidents occur, it is important to neutralize the odor with an enzyme type cleaner Nature’s Miracle is highly effective and sold in pet stores.  Do not clean pet messes with ammonia because it has the same odor properties as urine. Nor should you use a deodorizer for the odor will only be layered. Dogs can smell something diluted a million to one. We can smell only a ten to one dilution. Therefore a chemical change in the odor must occur so the dog is not lured back to the spot again via smell. You can create your own enzyme type cleaner by mixing a solution that is 25% white vinegar and 75% water.

   When you put the dog out make sure the dog has urinated and defecated.  Dogs should have a bowel movement after every meal.  If the dog/puppy has not gone keep it on a leash attached to your side or tied where you are sitting and take out every ten minutes until they relieve themselves.  Also make sure that is a calm environment where he/she can go.  Some dogs are excitable and tense up when they see other dogs or people.  Take them to an area where they have little visual distractions.  Do not say "good dog" while the dog is going so as not to interrupt them.  Instead say it right after the dog or puppy has finished.  In addition, avoid playing with or petting the dog while out until it has gone.  You can train a dog to go to relieve itself in a certain spot in the yard provided you take it on leash to that specific area.  If you do not have a yard try to get your dog to relieve him/herself in a common area.  Be a good neighbor and pick up.  It is important to also scoop daily in your own yard so as to avoid sanitation issues.  It will also prevent the dog and you from having to tip toe through a “minefield”.  By following these steps you and your dog/puppy will have a happy and clean environment.




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